I thought maybe the thunderstorm had caused the hard drive to fail. However, it's now obvious that something else had gone wrong.
Fortunately I have spare sticks of DDR all over the place and was able to replace the bad piece/pair with a working good pair.
Quick experiments with Memtest86 also showed that a) the memory access still gets slower as the amount of memory increases (from about 1900 mb/sec @ 1 gig to 1700 mb/sec at 3 gigs, and b) memory access gets way worse with unmatched dimms, which causes the machine to leave dual channel mode and go to single channel (1900 mb/sec to 900 mb/sec).
I should probably be worried that SMART reports that the boot disk has over 5 years of continuous uptime. I probably won't be worried until it's dead and everything that I rely on the server doing for me stops too.
Mountains
Wednesday, May 20, 2015
Tuesday, May 12, 2015
Monday, May 11, 2015
Loosen Your Laces
Because your shoes might be a little tight.
A few years ago, I replaced the break shoes and rotors on the ChevOldsmobuiac, a 1990 Oldsmobile cutlass Ciera. There may even be a post here about that... I certainly took a few photos. I figured that would be like a once in a lifetime replacement. The shoes box claimed the guide pins were pre-packed and ready to go, and they certainly felt like it. I put on a coat of high temperature enamel and bolted them up.
Fast forward a few years later and the car has a funky kind of shift when the brakes are applied... like one side is engaging a bit later than the other. I took the tires off and wiggled everything, but there was no outwardly obvious signs of damage to the wheels, bearings or or breaks. I chalked it up to a dying ball joint and waited for a more obvious clunk-clunk to find the issue.
Fast forward another few years to a few weeks ago, and the Girly calls to inform me that the car is not accelerating well, not coasting for long, and smells like burning. Fairly clear signs of a seized brake (though over the phone I also expected a major fluid leak, because we've been down that road before once or twice too). I suspected the parking brake as well, given past experience, but a test drive showed no symptoms, and I would expect rear-end dragging from parking brake problems.
Taking the front wheels off, however, showed that the front drivers side calliper had seized and melted all its rubbery bits.
Perhaps most disconcerting is that the heat/pressure damaged the hydraulic line, the failure of which would have caused a worse situation to develop. I'm glad it didn't happen when I was towing the trailer the month prior!
Taking the calliper apart showed the guide pins lubrication was completely gone!
The passenger calliper was only marginally better. No lube and rusty pins, but no sign of burning.
I bought new pads and a new drivers side calliper (I had a spare hydraulic hose in the parts stash), and made sure to repack everything with grease before assembly. The new (well, rebuilt) calliper had a very thin oily substance to lubricate the guide rods. I suspect that it slowly ran out of the old calliper over time and allowed it to corrode. This is very annoying. The old calliper worked fine for 20 odd years, yet the rebuilds barely made it 5. I'm going to add "check calliper guide rods" to my biannual checkout routine, but it's just one more thing to have to deal with.
The car stops good and straight now.
I can't help but wonder if the rebuilt callipers are designed to have a short life.
A few years ago, I replaced the break shoes and rotors on the ChevOldsmobuiac, a 1990 Oldsmobile cutlass Ciera. There may even be a post here about that... I certainly took a few photos. I figured that would be like a once in a lifetime replacement. The shoes box claimed the guide pins were pre-packed and ready to go, and they certainly felt like it. I put on a coat of high temperature enamel and bolted them up.
Fast forward a few years later and the car has a funky kind of shift when the brakes are applied... like one side is engaging a bit later than the other. I took the tires off and wiggled everything, but there was no outwardly obvious signs of damage to the wheels, bearings or or breaks. I chalked it up to a dying ball joint and waited for a more obvious clunk-clunk to find the issue.
Fast forward another few years to a few weeks ago, and the Girly calls to inform me that the car is not accelerating well, not coasting for long, and smells like burning. Fairly clear signs of a seized brake (though over the phone I also expected a major fluid leak, because we've been down that road before once or twice too). I suspected the parking brake as well, given past experience, but a test drive showed no symptoms, and I would expect rear-end dragging from parking brake problems.
Taking the front wheels off, however, showed that the front drivers side calliper had seized and melted all its rubbery bits.
Perhaps most disconcerting is that the heat/pressure damaged the hydraulic line, the failure of which would have caused a worse situation to develop. I'm glad it didn't happen when I was towing the trailer the month prior!
Taking the calliper apart showed the guide pins lubrication was completely gone!
The passenger calliper was only marginally better. No lube and rusty pins, but no sign of burning.
I bought new pads and a new drivers side calliper (I had a spare hydraulic hose in the parts stash), and made sure to repack everything with grease before assembly. The new (well, rebuilt) calliper had a very thin oily substance to lubricate the guide rods. I suspect that it slowly ran out of the old calliper over time and allowed it to corrode. This is very annoying. The old calliper worked fine for 20 odd years, yet the rebuilds barely made it 5. I'm going to add "check calliper guide rods" to my biannual checkout routine, but it's just one more thing to have to deal with.
The car stops good and straight now.
I can't help but wonder if the rebuilt callipers are designed to have a short life.
Friday, May 8, 2015
Back to the Mountains
I must admit that the D200 and my lens kit is running right at the bleeding edge when doing sports photography. At ISO 1600 and above, the noise is high and the colorbleeds are epic. Even so, the photos get a lot of traction in the league, but I know that the latest batch of full frame cameras has me beat hands down in terms of IQ and autofocus. Thank goodness for of camera flash. A little light is a great equalizer.
That all said, walk out the door into a bright sunny day, and it's hard to believe you'd do better with a modern camera.
Besides, the camera is just one part of the creative process.
May's Point in Boulder County near Flagstaff road. You can seen Boulder canyon in the lower right.
Colorado Springs from Section 16. You can see Garden of the Goods, Cheyenne Mountain, Downtown, Old Colorado City, I25 and a bunch of other stuff from here. Could practically draw a map of town from this photo.
That all said, walk out the door into a bright sunny day, and it's hard to believe you'd do better with a modern camera.
Besides, the camera is just one part of the creative process.
May's Point in Boulder County near Flagstaff road. You can seen Boulder canyon in the lower right.
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