Genuine Buddy 125 Maintnance Notes: Part 5, Deadlight/Running Light Mod

5: Genuine Buddy 125 LED Running Light Installation
The Genuine Buddys have turn signals installed under the handlebars at a distance that complies with DOT regulations. In most other countries, the turn signals on a motorcycle can be much closer together, and the Buddy has unused light bulb sockets on the front leg shield above the front fork. These are often called Deadlights in discussions. One does not have to own the scooter long to wonder why such a large part of the vehicles design would go unused.

In states where running and marker lights are legal on motorcycles, these can be modified to work with LED lights that don't overtax the Buddy's milquetoast electrical system. In 2013, I ordered a set of running light adapters from Voodoo Scooter Parts, one of which I installed in the Girly's scooter right away with a 1156-WW45-T bulbs from SuperBrightLEDS, and the other set sat on the shelf and collected cobwebs. While I was impressed with the visibility of the running lights, the cost of the LED bulbs was high enough to discourage repeating the job on the other scooter.

A few years later, bright, less expensive (sometimes even available on sale) 1156-WW27-T bulbs had become available, so I bought another set.

Getting the blubs installed requires a phillips head screwdriver (two, a large one for the leg shield front panel, and a smaller one for the light lenses. There's one big screw holding the leg shield panel on up front, and two small screws that reach through from the drivers position.

Here's a picture of the panel open. The holes for the smaller screws just above and to the left and right of the horn. There are also two electrical connectors taped to the side of the fairing, coming from the deadlight bulb sockets. The VSP adapters plug in there.

 The running lights have to be installed from the front, there's no socket in the back of the reflector to remove like most automotive lights. There's been some fear of cracking/breaking the deadlight lens. Although the lens is also screwed in, there is a tab and some pressure holding it in the leg shield. Following forum advice, I let the lenses warm up before I remove them to make the plastic a bit more flexible, and pry gently from the top near the screw. When I install LED blubs (ok, any automotive bulb, but especially bulbs that are not likely to be removed again), I put a dab of dielectric grease on the contacts to stave off erosion and the off chance of a short circuit from water ingress.

Deadlight before:

Deadlight with LED bulb installed.

 LED installed behind the deadlight cover.

This is the VSP running light adapter. There's one for each bulb. Inside the tubing is a voltage regulator/spike suppressor. 

Deadlight connectors down are taped to the to leg shield with black tape. Genuine hides a lot behind the leg shield.

Deadlight adapters attached...

Deadlight adapter attached to power leads. Black wire grounds near the blinker announcer, the red (+) wire goes to a tap on the ignition wire at the switch. Deadlight adapters get ziptied to the big hole on the bottom of the leg shield.

New 1156-WW27-T (Red, left) vs older 1156-WW45-T (Seafoam, right). The newer bulbs are somewhat brighter, but not suddenly blinding. They are also warmer/less white.

While subtle, the differences in light color does end up matching the headlight colors of the two scooters quite accurately. We installed a PIAA Ultrastar bulb in the Seafoam buddy, and it's output is whiter than the stock bulb. However, we did not find it to be meaningfully brighter, and won't be repeating the upgrade/hassle of taking apart the headset.